So, I'm not sure I want the top of the workbench riddled with cracks. The GluLam beam, on both sides, has surface cracks running from one end to the other, and especially on the bottom there are a number of knots. All the cracks and the knots are depressed. So, I'm going to experiment on the bottom, applying a coat of the same crack filler putty that floor installers use. It says on the can to trowel it all over, let dry, and light sanding will remove all of the material that's not filling a crack.
So here's the bottom face of the top with two patches installed, planed off smooth but not sanded. It looks pretty good, and I probably would have no issues with using it just the way it stands. The patches are made of Poplar and of Purple Heart; both are hardwoods with very close grain, so I doubt if they will require any crack filler putty.
This is the wood filler I picked to fill the cracks. Turns out that the stuff in the tube is too dry to squeeze out easily and there's not enough in the tube anyway, so I didn't use it.This stuff is runny, so I poured it on, and used a trowel to smooth it out. I've tried sanding this kind of material before and it turns out to pretty difficult. I'll let it dry and then try scraping it off before doing any sanding.
Here's the coated table ....... sort of dry scale all over it.We'll see how this works out!
CHEERS!
Phil
UPDATE:
What a mess. The stuff dries to a consistency very close to concrete. It's almost impossible to scrape off so I used my plane ...... it did come off, but there are many, many more cracks and depressions thatn I thought there was. The dried putty in the depressions looks very different from the Douglas Fir, and the depressions that filled up are highlighted by the creme colored putty.
I could probably sand the stuff off with 100 grit, but It's cold outside and I'm inside and don't want to make a mess that will require a couple of days to clean up, so ...... I'll wait. More later! Suggestions??
CHEERS!
Phil
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